Kaprazaar

What is chikankari?

Chikankari is a traditional hand-embroidery style in which white thread is stitched onto a light, fine fabric — classically white thread on white lawn, cotton or chiffon. The embroidery is done entirely by hand, creating delicate floral and paisley patterns that look subtle from a distance and richly detailed up close. Because the colour contrast is low, chikankari reads as texture rather than print: elegant, cool and unmistakably handmade.

How it is made: the design is first block-printed onto the fabric in a washable colour, then embroiderers work the pattern by hand using a family of stitches — flat stitches that sit on the surface, embossed stitches that raise small knots and motifs, and open, net-like stitches that create a fine jaali (lattice) effect. After stitching, the fabric is washed to remove the printed guide lines, leaving only the thread work. A single suit can pass through several hands before it is finished.

How to recognise good chikankari: turn the garment over. Hand-worked chikankari has a slightly irregular, soft back with no stiff backing paper, and the stitches vary a little in size — that variation is the signature of the hand, not a defect. Machine copies look perfectly uniform, feel flatter, and the motifs repeat with mechanical exactness. On Kaprazaar, chikankari suits are usually unstitched lawn 3-piece sets with an embroidered shirt and neckline, a daman patch, and a printed trouser or a chiffon dupatta.

How to wear and care for it: a white chikankari suit is a summer staple — cool, formal enough for lunches and festive days, and easy to dress up with jewellery. Wash gently in cold water, ideally by hand or on a delicate cycle, dry in shade, and iron on a medium setting with the embroidery face down on a soft cloth. Shop chikankari suits at kaprazaar.com/3-piece-suits.

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